The Second Voyage of HMS Beagle (1831-1836)

1. 1. Devonport

   Today: Devonport, Plymouth, England, United Kingdom · Arrived 27 December 1831 · position reconstructed

   No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

   The record survives. Why is this stage empty?Why is this position reconstructed?

2. 2. Teneriffe

   Today: Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain · Arrived 6 January 1832

   The expedition sighted the island of Grand Canary and the Peak of Teneriffe at sunrise, marking their arrival at the Canary Islands before continuing their voyage.

   the next morning we saw the sun rise behind the rugged outline of the Grand Canary island, and suddenly illuminate the Peak of Teneriffe, whilst the lower parts were veiled in fleecy clouds. This was the first of many delightful days never to be forgotten.

   Also called at by Ferdinand Magellan — who called it “Tenerife”. Identified as Tenerife

3. 3. Porto Praya, in St. Jago, the chief island of the Cape de Verd archipelago

   Today: Praia, Santiago, Cape Verde · Arrived 16 January 1832 · position reconstructed

   The expedition anchored at Porto Praya, on the island of St. Jago (now Santiago), Cape Verde Islands, marking their first landing after departing Europe.

   On the 16th of January, 1832, we anchored at Porto Praya, in St. Jago, the chief island of the Cape de Verd archipelago.

4. 4. Bahia

   Today: Salvador, Bahia, Brazil · Arrived 29 February 1832 · position reconstructed

   No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

   The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

5. 5. Rio de Janeiro

   Today: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil · Arrived 4 April 1832 · position reconstructed

   The expedition arrived at Rio de Janeiro, where the diarist spent several weeks exploring the surrounding area, including an excursion north of Cape Frio and a stay at Botofogo Bay.

   APRIL 4th to July 5th, 1832.--A few days after our arrival I became acquainted with an Englishman who was going to visit his estate, situated rather more than a hundred miles from the capital, to the northward of Cape Frio. I gladly accepted his kind offer of allowing me to accompany him.

   Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Rio-Janeiro”, Lieutenant James Cook, Ferdinand Magellan, Ferdinand Magellan. Identified as Rio de Janeiro

6. 6. Monte Video

   Today: Montevideo, Uruguay · Arrived 26 July 1832 · position reconstructed

   The Beagle anchored at Monte Video, where it would be employed in surveying the southern and eastern coasts of South America for the next two years.

   July 26th.--We anchored at Monte Video. The Beagle was employed in surveying the extreme southern and eastern coasts of America, south of the Plata, during the two succeeding years.

   Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Montevideo, Río de la Plata”, Lieutenant James Cook. Identified as Montevideo

7. 7. Buenos Ayres

   Today: Buenos Aires, Argentina · Arrived 1 August 1832 · position reconstructed

   The author traveled overland by the postas from Bahia Blanca to Buenos Ayres, crossing the plains that had been cleared of Indians by General Rosas's campaign, and ultimately arrived at the capital.

   As the Beagle intended to call at Bahia Blanca, I determined to proceed there by land; and ultimately I extended my plan to travel the whole way by the postas to Buenos Ayres.

   Also called at by Ernest Shackleton. Identified as Buenos Aires

8. 8. Maldonado

   Today: Maldonado, Uruguay · Arrived 1 November 1832 · position reconstructed

   Darwin observed the habits of a local animal in Maldonado, noting the distinctive sound it made and comparing it to a related species at the Rio Negro. He described how the noise of the Maldonado kind was repeated three or four times and could be mistaken for the sound of chopping wood.

   At the R. Negro, in Northern Patagonia, there is an animal of the same habits, and probably a closely allied species, but which I never saw. Its noise is different from that of the Maldonado kind; it is repeated only twice instead of three or four times, and is more distinct and sonorous; when heard from a distance it so closely resembles the sound made in cutting down a small tree with an axe, that I have sometimes remained in doubt concerning it.

9. 9. Rio Negro

   Today: Río Negro, Argentina · Arrived 3 August 1833 · position reconstructed

   The Beagle arrived off the mouth of the Rio Negro, the principal river on the coast between the Strait of Magellan and the Plata, marking the most southern position on the eastern coast of South America inhabited by civilized man at the time.

   JULY 24th, 1833.--The Beagle sailed from Maldonado, and on August the 3rd she arrived off the mouth of the Rio Negro. This is the principal river on the whole line of coast between the Strait of Magellan and the Plata. It enters the sea about three hundred miles south of the estuary of the Plata.

10. 10. Bahia Blanca

    Today: Bahía Blanca, Buenos Aires Province, Argentina · Arrived 24 August 1832 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle arrived at Bahia Blanca, where Darwin was left behind to travel by land to Buenos Ayres, and made observations during his visit and a previous survey of the harbour.

    The Beagle arrived here on the 24th of August, and a week afterwards sailed for the Plata. With Captain Fitz Roy's consent I was left behind, to travel by land to Buenos Ayres. I will here add some observations, which were made during this visit and on a previous occasion, when the Beagle was employed in surveying the harbour.

11. 11. Port St. Julian

    Today: Puerto San Julián, Santa Cruz, Argentina · Arrived 1 January 1834 · position reconstructed

    At Port St. Julian, Darwin discovered half the skeleton of the extinct Macrauchenia Patachonica in red mud atop a gravel plain, providing important paleontological evidence about Patagonia's prehistoric fauna.

    At Port St. Julian, [12] in some red mud capping the gravel on the 90-feet plain, I found half the skeleton of the Macrauchenia Patachonica, a remarkable quadruped, full as large as a camel.

    Also called at by Francis Drake — who called it “Port S. Julian”, Ferdinand Magellan — who called it “Port of St. Julian”. Identified as Puerto San Julián

12. 12. Berkeley Sound, in East Falkland Island

    Today: Berkeley Sound, East Falkland, Falkland Islands · Arrived 1 March 1833 · position reconstructed

    On March 1st, 1833, the Beagle anchored in Berkeley Sound, East Falkland Island, marking the ship's arrival at the Falkland Islands during its voyage.

    On March 1st, 1833, and again on March 16th, 1834, the Beagle anchored in Berkeley Sound, in East Falkland Island.

13. 13. Port Famine

    Today: Puerto del Hambre, Magallanes, Chile · Arrived 1 May 1834 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle anchored at Port Famine in the Strait of Magellan, where the crew observed the dramatic landscape and prepared to leave Tierra del Fuego by the Magdalen Channel.

    June 8th.--We weighed anchor early in the morning and left Port Famine. Captain Fitz Roy determined to leave the Strait of Magellan by the Magdalen Channel, which had not long been discovered.

14. 14. Low's Harbour

    Today: Low's Harbour, Chonos Archipelago, Chile · Arrived 7 June 1834 · position reconstructed

    The expedition anchored near the northern end of the Chonos Archipelago in Low's Harbour, where they remained for a week, observing the luxuriant vegetation and the surrounding landscape.

    7th.--Having run up the coast, we anchored near the northern end of the Chonos Archipelago, in Low's Harbour, where we remained a week. The islands were here, as in Chiloe, composed of a stratified, soft, littoral deposit; and the vegetation in consequence was beautifully luxuriant.

15. 15. Valparaiso

    Today: Valparaíso, Chile · Arrived 23 July 1834 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle anchored late at night in the bay of Valparaiso, the chief seaport of Chile. The next morning, the narrator describes the delightful climate and the picturesque view of the town from the anchorage.

    JULY 23rd.--The Beagle anchored late at night in the bay of Valparaiso, the chief seaport of Chile. When morning came, everything appeared delightful. After Tierra del Fuego, the climate felt quite delicious--the atmosphere so dry, and the heavens so clear and blue with the sun shining brightly, that all nature seemed sparkling with life.

    Also called at by Francis Drake — who called it “Valperizo”. Identified as Valparaíso

16. 16. Concepcion

    Today: Concepción, Biobío, Chile · Arrived 4 March 1835 · position reconstructed

    Charles Darwin arrived at Concepcion shortly after the devastating earthquake of February 20, 1835, and witnessed the destruction of the city and its port, Talcahuano. He observed the aftermath, including ruined buildings and debris along the coast, and gathered accounts of the disaster from local residents.

    March 4th.--We entered the harbour of Concepcion. While the ship was beating up to the anchorage, I landed on the island of Quiriquina. The mayor-domo of the estate quickly rode down to tell me the terrible news of the great earthquake of the 20th:--"That not a house in Concepcion or Talcahuano (the port) was standing; that seventy villages were destroyed; and that a great wave had almost washed away the ruins of Talcahuano." Of this latter statement I soon saw abundant proofs--the whole coast being strewed over with timber and furniture as if a thousand ships had been wrecked.

    Also called at by Jean-François de Galaup, comte de La Pérouse — who called it “Concepción, Chili”. Identified as Concepción

17. 17. Iquique

    Today: Iquique, Tarapacá Region, Chile · Arrived 12 July 1835 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle anchored in the port of Iquique, where Darwin observed the desert landscape, the town's small population, and the imposing wall of rock rising from the coast.

    July 12th.--We anchored in the port of Iquique, in lat. 20 degs. 12', on the coast of Peru. The town contains about a thousand inhabitants, and stands on a little plain of sand at the foot of a great wall of rock, 2000 feet in height, here forming the coast. The whole is utterly desert.

18. 18. Callao

    Today: Callao, Peru · Arrived 1 July 1835 · position reconstructed

    Darwin visited the seaport of Callao, describing its appearance, inhabitants, and the state of its fortress during his stay.

    Callao is a filthy, ill-built, small seaport. The inhabitants, both here and at Lima, present every imaginable shade of mixture, between European, Negro, and Indian blood. They appear a depraved, drunken set of people. The atmosphere is loaded with foul smells, and that peculiar one, which may be perceived in almost every town within the tropics, was here very strong. The fortress, which withstood Lord Cochrane's long siege, has an imposing appearance. But the President, during our stay, sold the brass guns, and proceeded to dismantle parts of it.

    Also called at by Francis Drake — who called it “Lima called ui?m!^''° * -^^ Callao”. Identified as Callao

19. 19. Charles Island

    Today: Floreana Island, Galápagos, Ecuador · Arrived 23 September 1835 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle arrived at Charles Island (now Floreana Island), where Darwin visited the small colony established by political exiles from Ecuador and traveled inland to observe the settlement and the island's natural history.

    23rd.--The Beagle proceeded to Charles Island. This archipelago has long been frequented, first by the bucaniers, and latterly by whalers, but it is only within the last six years, that a small colony has been established here. The inhabitants are between two and three hundred in number; they are nearly all people of colour, who have been banished for political crimes from the Republic of the Equator, of which Quito is the capital. The settlement is placed about four and a half miles inland, and at a height probably of a thousand feet.

20. 20. Tahiti

    Today: Tahiti, Society Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 16 November 1835 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle arrived at Tahiti, where the crew was warmly received by a crowd of locals at Point Venus and welcomed by the missionary Mr. Wilson. The crew enjoyed their first impressions of the island and spent time exploring and socializing.

    After dinner we landed to enjoy all the delights produced by the first impressions of a new country, and that country the charming Tahiti. A crowd of men, women, and children, was collected on the memorable Point Venus, ready to receive us with laughing, merry faces. They marshalled us towards the house of Mr. Wilson, the missionary of the district, who met us on the road, and gave us a very friendly reception.

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Taïti (New Cythera / Nouvelle-Cythère)”, Lieutenant James Cook — who called it “King George's Island”. Identified as Tahiti

21. 21. New Zealand

    Today: Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand · Arrived 19 December 1835 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle approached New Zealand, sighting it in the distance after crossing the Pacific Ocean. This marked their arrival near the Bay of Islands.

    December 19th.--In the evening we saw in the distance New Zealand. We may now consider that we have nearly crossed the Pacific.

22. 22. Port Jackson

    Today: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia · Arrived 12 January 1836

    The expedition arrived at Port Jackson, where the city of Sydney is located. The journal describes the approach to the harbour, the appearance of the coastline, and the first impressions of the city and its surroundings.

    JANUARY 12th, 1836.--Early in the morning a light air carried us towards the entrance of Port Jackson. Instead of beholding a verdant country, interspersed with fine houses, a straight line of yellowish cliff brought to our minds the coast of Patagonia. A solitary lighthouse, built of white stone, alone told us that we were near a great and populous city. Having entered the harbour, it appears fine and spacious, with cliff-formed shores of horizontally stratified sandstone.

    Also called at by Lieutenant James Cook. Identified as Port Jackson

23. 23. Hobart Town

    Today: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia · Arrived 5 February 1836

    The Beagle arrived at Hobart Town, anchoring in the cove near the capital of Tasmania after a six-day passage, marking the start of a ten-day stay during which several excursions were made in the surrounding area.

    Late in the evening we anchored in the snug cove, on the shores of which stands the capital of Tasmania. The first aspect of the place was very inferior to that of Sydney; the latter might be called a city, this is only a town. It stands at the base of Mount Wellington, a mountain 3100 feet high, but of little picturesque beauty; from this source, however, it receives a good supply of water.

24. 24. King George's Sound

    Today: Albany, Western Australia, Australia · Arrived 1 March 1836

    The Beagle arrived at King George's Sound, near the southwest corner of Australia, where the crew stayed for eight days and found the landscape to be dull and uninteresting, with sandy, poor soil and stunted vegetation.

    February 7th.--The Beagle sailed from Tasmania, and, on the 6th of the ensuing month, reached King George's Sound, situated close to the S. W. corner of Australia. We stayed there eight days; and we did not during our voyage pass a more dull and uninteresting time.

25. 25. Keeling Island

    Today: Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Australia · Arrived 1 April 1836 · position reconstructed

    The expedition arrived in view of the Keeling or Cocos Islands, where they encountered an English resident and learned about the history and inhabitants of the atoll.

    APRIL 1st.--We arrived in view of the Keeling or Cocos Islands, situated in the Indian Ocean, and about six hundred miles distant from the coast of Sumatra. This is one of the lagoon-islands (or atolls) of coral formation, similar to those in the Low Archipelago which we passed near. When the ship was in the channel at the entrance, Mr. Liesk, an English resident, came off in his boat. The history of the inhabitants of this place, in as few words as possible, is as follows.

26. 26. Mauritius

    Today: Mauritius, Republic of Mauritius · Arrived 29 April 1836 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle passed around the northern end of Mauritius, and Darwin admired the island's beautiful scenery, noting the bright green sugar-cane fields and jagged volcanic mountains.

    APRIL 29th.--In the morning we passed round the northern end of Mauritius, or the Isle of France. From this point of view the aspect of the island equalled the expectations raised by the many well-known descriptions of its beautiful scenery. The sloping plain of the Pamplemousses, interspersed with houses, and coloured by the large fields of sugar-cane of a bright green, composed the foreground.

27. 27. Cape Town

    Today: Cape Town, South Africa · Arrived 1 June 1836 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle visited Cape Town, where the diarist made an excursion of several days into the surrounding country to better understand its character.

    When the Beagle was at Cape Town, I made an excursion of some days' length into the country, which at least was sufficient to render that which I had read more fully intelligible.

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Cape of Good Hope (Table Bay)”, Lieutenant James Cook — who called it “Table Bay”. Identified as Cape Town

28. 28. St. Helena

    Today: Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory · Arrived 1 July 1836 · position reconstructed

    Darwin visited St. Helena, where he explored the island's geology and unique flora, noting the extinction of several land-shell species and the introduction of birds and plants.

    St. Helena, situated so remote from any continent, in the midst of a great ocean, and possessing a unique Flora, excites our curiosity. The eight land-shells, though now extinct, and one living Succinea, are peculiar species found nowhere else.

    Also called at by Lieutenant James Cook. Identified as Saint Helena

29. 29. Ascension

    Today: Ascension Island, British Overseas Territory · Arrived 19 July 1836 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle reached Ascension Island, where the volcanic landscape and the central mound called Green Hill were observed and described.

    On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who have beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, will at once be able to picture to themselves the appearance of Ascension. They will imagine smooth conical hills of a bright red colour, with their summits generally truncated, rising separately out of a level surface of black rugged lava.

    Also called at by Lieutenant James Cook — who called it “Ascension Island”. Identified as Ascension Island

30. 30. Bahia

    Today: Salvador, Bahia, Brazil · Arrived 1 August 1836 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle arrived at Bahia (modern Salvador, Brazil) on August 1st, 1836, where Darwin spent four days taking long walks and enjoying the tropical scenery before the ship continued its voyage.

    On leaving Ascension, we sailed for Bahia, on the coast of Brazil, in order to complete the chronometrical measurement of the world. We arrived there on August 1st, and stayed four days, during which I took several long walks.

31. 31. Pernambuco

    Today: Recife, Pernambuco, Brazil · Arrived 12 August 1836

    The ship arrived at Pernambuco (modern Recife), anchoring outside the reef before being piloted into the inner harbour to lie close to the town.

    Unfavourable winds, however, delayed us, and on the 12th we ran into Pernambuco,--a large city on the coast of Brazil, in latitude 8 degs. south. We anchored outside the reef; but in a short time a pilot came on board and took us into the inner harbour, where we lay close to the town.

32. 32. Terceira

    Today: Terceira, Azores, Portugal · Arrived 1 September 1836 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

    The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

33. 33. Falmouth

    Today: Falmouth, Cornwall, England · Arrived 2 October 1836 · position reconstructed

    The Beagle reached the shore of England at Falmouth, where the author disembarked after nearly five years aboard, marking the end of the voyage.

    the 2nd of October we made the shore, of England; and at Falmouth I left the Beagle, having lived on board the good little vessel nearly five years.

Published under CC BY-SA 4.0. Sources keep their own open licences. See the Magna Carta of the Seas for how this was verified.