The First Voyage of Captain James Cook (1768-1771)

1. 1. Plymouth

   Today: Plymouth, England, United Kingdom · Arrived 26 August 1768

   The Endeavour, under the command of Lieutenant James Cook, departed from Plymouth, England, marking the official start of the voyage around the world.

   TY'S BARK ENDEAVOUR, ON A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, COMMANDER, COMMENCING THE 25TH OF MAY, 1768.

   Also called at by Francis Drake — who called it “Plimmouth”, Francis Drake. Identified as Plymouth

2. 2. Funchall

   Today: Funchal, Madeira, Portugal · Arrived 13 September 1768

   The Endeavour anchored at Funchal, Madeira, where the crew obtained provisions such as wine, water, fruit, and onions, before sailing onward.

   The Refreshments for Shipping to be got at this place are Wine, Water, Fruit of Several Sorts, and Onions in Plenty, and some Sweatmeats; but Fresh Meat and Poultry are very Dear, and not to be had at any rate without Leave from the Governour. Wind southerly, East-South-East, South-West. [Sailed from Madeira.] Monday, 19th. Light breezes and fine Clear weather. At Midnight Sailed from Funchall. At 8 a.m. the high land over it bore North 1/2 East.

3. 3. Santa Cruz

   Today: Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain · Arrived 20 September 1768

   The Endeavour stopped at Santa Cruz in the Canary Islands early in the voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro.

   No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

   The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

4. 4. Rio de Janeiro

   Today: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil · Arrived 14 November 1768

   The Endeavour arrived at Rio de Janeiro, anchoring just above the Isle of Cobras. The Vice Roy's officers came aboard to question the ship's details, and the first officer sent ashore was detained until Captain Cook himself went ashore.

   ARRIVAL AT RIO DE JANEIRO, Monday, 14th. Moderate Sea and Low breezes and fine pleasant weather. At 5 p.m. Anchored in 5 fathoms just above the Isle of Cobras, which lies before the City of Rio De Janeiro. A little before we Anchor'd the Pinnace return'd and informed me that the Vice Roy had thought proper to detain the Officer until I went ashore. Soon after we Anchored a Boat came on board bringing several of the Vice Roy's Officers, who asked many Questions in respect to the Ship: Cargo, from whence she came, Number of Guns, Men, etc., all of which was Answered to their satisfaction.

   Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Rio-Janeiro”, Charles Darwin, Ferdinand Magellan, Ferdinand Magellan. Identified as Rio de Janeiro

5. 5. Monte Video

   Today: Montevideo, Uruguay · Arrived 13 December 1768

   The Endeavour arrived at Monte Video (Montevideo) on its outward voyage to the Pacific, stopping for supplies and repairs before continuing to Rio de Janeiro.

   No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

   Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Montevideo, Río de la Plata”, Charles Darwin. Identified as Montevideo

   The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

6. 6. Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn

   Today: Strait of Le Maire and Cape Horn, Tierra del Fuego, Chile/Argentina · Arrived 20 December 1768 · position reconstructed

   Cook and the Endeavour navigated through the Strait of Le Maire and rounded Cape Horn, making astronomical observations and noting compass variations in the area. This marked their passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean.

   at of Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn, being determined by several Observations of the Sun and moon made both by myself and Mr. Green, the Astronomer. We found the Variation of the Compass on this Coast to be from 23 to 25 degrees east, except near Barnevelts Islands and Cape Horn, where we found it less and unsettled; it is likely that it is here disturbed by the land, as the Dutch Squadron before mentioned found in this very place all their Compasses to differ from each other.

   Why is this position reconstructed?

7. 7. Terra del Fuego

   Today: Tierra del Fuego, Staten Island anchorage, Argentina · Arrived 14 January 1769 · position reconstructed

   Cook and the Endeavour anchored off the coast of Tierra del Fuego, near Staten Island, and observed the landscape and coastal features while ranging the coast toward the Strait of Le Maire.

   We fell in with this Coast 21 Leagues to the Westward of Straits Le Mair, and ranged the coast from thence to the Strait within 2 or 3 Leagues of the Land, and had soundings all the way from 40 to 20 fathoms, a Gravelly and Sandy Bottom. The land near the Shore is in general low but hilly, the face of the Country appears Green and Woody, but in land are Craggy Mountains; they appeared to be of no great height, nor were they Covered with Snow.

8. 8. King George's Island

   Today: Tahiti, Society Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 13 April 1769 · position reconstructed

   The Endeavour arrived at King George's Island (now known as Tahiti), sighting the high and mountainous land after a period of variable winds and navigation. This marked the beginning of their stay to observe the Transit of Venus.

   At 6 a.m. saw King George's Island* (* So named by Captain Wallis. The native name was ascertained by Cook, who spelt it Otaheite. Now known as Tahiti. It is the chief island of the Society Group, and was annexed by the French in 1844.) Extending from West by South 1/2 South to West by North 1/2 North. It appeared very high and Mountainous.

   Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Taïti (New Cythera / Nouvelle-Cythère)”, Charles Darwin — who called it “Tahiti”. Identified as Tahiti

9. 9. Eimeo

   Today: Moorea, Society Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 13 July 1769 · position reconstructed

   The Endeavour visited Eimeo (now Moorea) in the Society Islands during Cook's first voyage, as part of their exploration of the region.

   No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

   The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

10. 10. Huahine

    Today: Huahine, Society Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 16 July 1769 · position reconstructed

    Cook and the Endeavour visited Huahine, one of the Leeward Islands in the Society Islands group, during their exploration of the Pacific. The journal notes that at the time of Cook's visit, the chief of Bolabola was supreme over most of the group, and their tie to Tahiti was but slight.

    The islands here described, the Society Islands of Cook, and now known as the Leeward Group of the Society Islands, were generally under the dominion of Tahiti. At the time of Cook's visit, the chief of Bolabola was supreme over most of the group, and their tie to Tahiti was but slight. They are all very beautiful

11. 11. Ulietea

    Today: Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 20 July 1769 · position reconstructed

    Cook and the Endeavour arrived at Ulietea (Raiatea), anchoring after finding an opening in the reef and being visited by some of the natives.

    Thursday, 20th. Moderate breezes at East and East-North-East. Fair weather. At 1/2 past 2 p.m. weighed and made Sail for the Island of Ulietea, which lies South-West by West, Distance 7 or 8 leagues from Huaheine. At 1/2 past 6 we were within 3 Leagues of it, then shortened sail and stood off and on all night, and at daylight made Sail in shore, and soon after discover'd an opening in the Reef that lies along this side of the Island, within which, Tupia said, was a good Harbour. Upon this I hoisted out the Pinnace, and sent the Master in to Examine it, who soon made the Signal for the Ship to follow. Accordingly we stood in and Anchor'd in 22 fathoms, soft ground. Soon after we Anchor'd some of the Natives came on board the Ship

12. 12. Bolabola

    Today: Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 29 July 1769 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour lay off Bolabola (Bora Bora), where the crew traded with the sociable natives for hogs, fowls, plantains, and yams, and found the harbour safe and commodious.

    Kept plying on and off this day, waiting for the return of the Long boat. At 1/2 past 5 not seeing anything of her, fir'd a Gun for her to return, and as soon as it was dark hoisted a light. At 1/2 past 8 heard the report of a musquet, which we answered with a Gun; and soon after the Boat came on board with 3 small Hogs, a few Fowls, and a large Quantity of Plantains, and some Yams. They found the Natives very Sociable and ready to part with anything they had, and the Harbour safe and Commodious, with a good Anchorage in 25, 20, and 16 fathoms clear ground.

13. 13. Ohetiroa

    Today: Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia · Arrived 14 August 1769

    The Endeavour sighted the island of Ohetiroa (modern Rurutu) and sent a party in the pinnace to attempt a landing and communicate with the natives.

    Monday, 14th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. At 2 p.m. saw land bearing South-East, which Tupia calls the Island of Ohetiroa.* (* Rurutu, one of the Tubuai or Austral Group. They are now under French protectorate.) At 6 was within 2 or 3 Leagues of it, the Extreams bearing from South by East to South-East; shortned sail and stood off and on all night; at 6 a.m. made Sail and stood in for the Land and run to Leeward of the Island, keeping close in shore all the time, saw several of the Natives as we run along shore, but in no great numbers. At 9 hoisted out the Pinnace and sent Lieutenant Gore, Mr. Banks, and Tupia to Endeavour to land upon the Island, and to speak with the Natives, and to try if they could learn from them what l

14. 14. Poverty Bay

    Today: Poverty Bay, Gisborne District, North Island, New Zealand · Arrived 9 October 1769 · position reconstructed

    Cook anchored the Endeavour in Poverty Bay, North Island, New Zealand, and went ashore with a party including Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attempting to make contact with local Māori.

    MONDAY, 9th October. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather. P.M. stood into the Bay and Anchored on the North-East side before the Entrance of a small River,* (* Tauranga nui. The township of Gisborne is now situated on its eastern bank.) in 10 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The North-East point of the Bay bore East by South 1/2 South, and the South-West point South, distance from the Shore half a League. After this I went ashore with a Party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We landed abreast of the Ship and on the East side of the River just mentioned; but seeing some of the Natives on the other side of the River of whom I was desirous of speaking with, and finding that we could not ford the Ri

15. 15. North Island of New Zealand

    Today: North Island, New Zealand · Arrived 1 January 1770

    Cook and his crew completed the circumnavigation of the North Island of New Zealand, confirming it was an island after four months of exploration.

    I then called the Officers upon deck, and asked them if they were now satisfied that this land was an Island; to which they answer'd in the Affirmative, and we hauled our wind to the Eastward.* (* The Endeavour had now completely circumnavigated the North Island of New Zealand, having spent four months in the exploration.

16. 16. Dusky Bay

    Today: Dusky Sound, South Island, New Zealand · Arrived 14 March 1770 · position reconstructed

    Cook sighted and named Dusky Bay (now Dusky Sound), describing its location and features, but did not enter due to weather and daylight constraints.

    At 1/2 past 3 double reeft the Topsails, and hauld in for a Bay, wherein their appear'd to be good Anchorage, and into which I had thought of going with the Ship; but after standing in an hour, we found the distance too great to run before dark, and it blow'd too hard to attempt it in the night, or even to keep to Windward; for these reasons we gave it up, and bore away along shore. This bay I have named Dusky Bay. It lies in the Latitude of 45 degrees 47 minutes South; it is about 3 or 4 Miles broad at the Entrance, and seems to be full as deep.

17. 17. Queen Charlotte's Sound

    Today: Queen Charlotte Sound, South Island, New Zealand · Arrived 16 January 1770 · position reconstructed

    Cook and the Endeavour anchored in a snug cove (Ship Cove) within Queen Charlotte's Sound, where they were visited by local Māori and began exploring the area.

    At 2 o'Clock we anchor'd in a very Snug Cove,* (* Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound.) which is on the North-West side of the Bay facing the South-West end of the Island in 11 fathoms; soft Ground, and moor'd with the Stream Anchor. By this time several of the Natives had come off to the Ship in their Canoes, and after heaving a few stones at us and having some Conversation with Tupia, some of them Ventur'd on board, where they made but a very short stay before they went into their Canoes again, and soon after left u

18. 18. Botany Bay

    Today: Botany Bay, New South Wales, Australia · Arrived 29 April 1770

    Captain Cook and his crew landed at Botany Bay, where Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander collected a great quantity of plants, leading Cook to name the place Botany Bay.

    The great quantity of plants Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found in this place occasioned my giving it the Name of Botany Bay.* (* The Bay was at first called Stingray Bay. The plan of it at the Admiralty is called by this name, and none of the logs know Botany Bay. It seems probable that Cook finally settled on the name after the ship left, and when Banks had had time to examine his collections.

    Also called at by Jean-François de Galaup, comte de La Pérouse. Identified as Botany Bay

19. 19. Port Jackson

    Today: Sydney Harbour, New South Wales, Australia · Arrived 6 May 1770

    Cook sailed past and named Port Jackson, noting its appearance and potential as a safe anchorage, but did not enter or explore it during the voyage.

    and at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 33 degrees 50 minutes South, about 2 or 3 Miles from the Land, and abreast of a Bay, wherein there appear'd to be safe Anchorage, which I called Port Jackson.

    Also called at by Charles Darwin. Identified as Port Jackson

20. 20. Bustard Bay

    Today: Bustard Bay, Queensland, Australia · Arrived 23 May 1770

    Cook and the Endeavour anchored in Bustard Bay, Queensland, on the evening of May 23, 1770, after sailing along the coast and sending a boat ahead to sound for anchorage.

    Wednesday, 23rd. Continued our Course alongshore at the distance of about 2 Miles off, having from 12 to 9, 8 and 7 fathoms, until 5 o'Clock, at which time we were abreast of the South point of a Large open Bay,* (* Bustard Bay.) wherein I intended to Anchor. Accordingly we hauld in Close upon a Wind, and sent a boat ahead to sound; after making some Trips we Anchored at 8 o'Clock in 5 fathoms, a Sandy bottom.

21. 21. Thirsty Sound

    Today: Thirsty Sound, Queensland, Australia · Arrived 29 May 1770

    Cook and the Endeavour anchored in Thirsty Sound, Queensland, during their northward exploration of the Australian coast. The crew observed tidal patterns and navigated carefully through the bay's challenging waters.

    Having a boat ahead, found our Soundings at first were very irregular, from 9 to 4 fathoms; but afterwards regular, from 9 to 11 fathoms. At 8, being about 2 Leagues from the Main Land, we Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, Sandy bottom. Soon after this we found a Slow Motion of a Tide seting to the Eastward, and rode so until 6, at which time the tide had risen 11 feet; we now got under Sail, and Stood away North-North-West as the land lay.

22. 22. Whitsunday Passage

    Today: Whitsunday Passage, Queensland, Australia · Arrived 4 June 1770 · position reconstructed

    Cook and the Endeavour sailed through Whitsunday Passage, describing its breadth, length, and suitability as a safe harbour, with good anchorage and many bays and coves.

    Monday, 4th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East, a Gentle breeze and Clear weather. In the P.M. Steerd thro' the passage* (* Whitsunday Passage. The aspect of the shores is very pleasing.) which we found from 3 to 6 or 7 Miles broad, and 8 or 9 Leagues in length, North by West 1/2 West and South by East 1/2 East. It is form'd by the Main on the West, and by Islands on the East, one of which is at least 5 Leagues in length. Our Depth of Water in running thro' was between 25 and 20 fathoms; everywhere good Anchorage; indeed the whole passage is one Continued safe Harbour, besides a Number of small Bays and Coves on each side, where ships might lay as it where in a Bason; at least so it appear'd to me, for I did not wait to Exa

23. 23. Endeavour River

    Today: Endeavour River, Cooktown, Queensland, Australia · Arrived 22 June 1770 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour was beached in the Endeavour River to repair a serious leak caused by damage from the reefs. The crew unloaded coal and warped the ship higher up the harbour to lay her ashore for repairs.

    Friday, 22nd. Winds at South-East, fair weather. At 4 p.m., having got out most of the Coals, cast loose the Ship's moorings, and warped her a little higher up the Harbour to a place I had pitched upon to lay her ashore to stop the Leak; draught of water Forward 7 feet 9 inches and abaft 13 feet 6 inches. At 8, being high water, hauld her bow close ashore, but Keept her stern afloat, because I was afraid of Neaping her,* (* I.e., Having her so far on shore that they could not heave her off at Neap tide.) and yet it was necessary to lay the whole of her as near the ground as possible.* (* The town of Cooktown now stands where the Endeavour was beached, and the (as near as can be judged) exact spot is marked by a monument.) At 2 a.

24. 24. the extremity of New Wales

    Today: Cape York, Queensland, Australia · Arrived 22 August 1770 · position reconstructed

    Cook reached the northernmost point of the east coast of Australia, which he called the extremity of New Wales, completing his exploration of the coast before passing through Torres Strait.

    but the flood always set to the North-West to the extremity of New Wales, from thence West and South-West into the India Seas.

25. 25. Savu

    Today: Savu (Sawu), East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia · Arrived 17 September 1770 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour stopped at Savu for four days, where the crew obtained fresh beef and greens, which helped restore their health after a long period at sea.

    Received from the Shore Fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship's Company.

26. 26. Batavia

    Today: Jakarta, Java, Indonesia · Arrived 11 October 1770 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour arrived at Batavia, where the crew initially enjoyed good health, but soon many fell ill due to the unhealthy climate, resulting in several deaths including Tupia and others. The ship took on fresh provisions and prepared for repairs.

    I had forgot to mention, that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick List; Lieut. Hicks, Mr. Green, and Tupia were the only people that had any complaints occasioned by a long continuance at Sea.* (* This was an achievement indeed, and Cook records it in this simple observation. Of the many ships which had arrived at Batavia after voyages across the Pacific, none but had come to an anchor with crews decimated and enfeebled through scurvy.

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville. Identified as Batavia

27. 27. Onrust

    Today: Onrust Island, Kepulauan Seribu, Jakarta, Indonesia · Arrived 18 October 1770 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour anchored near Onrust Island after leaving Batavia, with the intention of careening and repairing the ship. Cook went ashore to arrange for landing stores and to seek the necessary permissions for repairs.

    at daylight in the A.M. took up our Anchor and run down to Onrust. At 9 Anchor'd in 7 fathoms off Coopers Island, which lies close to Onrust. There are wharfs at both of these Islands, and ships land there stores, sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other, but it is only at Onrust where the proper conveniences are for heaving down. Soon after we Anchor'd I went on shore to the Officer of the Yard, to see if they could not allow us some place to land our stores, but this could not be granted without orders.

28. 28. Princes Island

    Today: Panaitan Island, Banten, Indonesia · Arrived 6 January 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour anchored under the south-east side of Princes Island to replenish wood and water and to procure refreshments for the sick crew. Cook went ashore to inspect the watering place and interact with the local inhabitants.

    At 3 o'clock in the P.M. anchor'd under the South-East side of Princes Island in 18 fathoms water, in order to recruite our wood and water, and to procure refreshments for the people, which are now in a much worse state of health than when we left Batavia. After coming to an anchor I went on shore to look at the watering place, and to speak with the Natives, some of whom were upon the Beach. I found the watering place convenient, and the water to all appearance good, Provided proper care is taken in the filling of it.

29. 29. Table Bay

    Today: Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa · Arrived 15 March 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour arrived at Table Bay (Cape Town), where the crew received fresh provisions and prepared for the final leg of their return to England. The health of the crew was notably good upon arrival.

    I had forgot to mention, that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick List; Lieut. Hicks, Mr. Green, and Tupia were the only people that had any complaints occasioned by a long continuance at Sea.* (* This was an achievement indeed, and Cook records it in this simple observation.

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “Cape of Good Hope (Table Bay)”, Charles Darwin — who called it “Cape Town”. Identified as Cape Town

30. 30. St. Helena

    Today: Saint Helena, British Overseas Territory · Arrived 1 May 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour arrived at St. Helena, anchoring in the road before James's Fort, where they found several other ships including His Majesty's Ship Portland and Swallow, as well as a fleet of Indiamen.

    At 6 A.M. saw the Island of St. Helena bearing West, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Anchor'd in the Road, before James's Fort, in 24 fathoms water. Found riding here His Majesty's Ship Portland and Swallow* (* This was not the same Swallow that preceded Cook in circumnavigation. She had been broken up.) Sloop, and 12 Sail of Indiaman.

    Also called at by Charles Darwin. Identified as Saint Helena

31. 31. Ascension Island

    Today: Ascension Island, British Overseas Territory, South Atlantic Ocean · Arrived 10 May 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour stopped at Ascension Island in the South Atlantic during the homeward leg of the voyage, as noted in the journal's index.

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

    Also called at by Charles Darwin — who called it “Ascension”. Identified as Ascension Island

    The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

32. 32. Fayal

    Today: Faial Island, Azores, Portugal · Arrived 10 June 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour anchored at Fayal (Faial Island) in the Azores on the return voyage to England, stopping for provisions and repairs before continuing to the English Channel.

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

    The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

33. 33. Deal

    Today: Deal, Kent, England · Arrived 13 July 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour returned to England and anchored off Deal, marking the end of Captain Cook's first voyage around the world.

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

    The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

34. 34. Deptford

    Today: Deptford, London, England, United Kingdom · Arrived 17 July 1771 · position reconstructed

    The Endeavour returned to Deptford, marking the completion of Captain Cook's first voyage around the world.

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yet — help us find one.

    The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

Published under CC BY-SA 4.0. Sources keep their own open licences. See the Magna Carta of the Seas for how this was verified.