Faxian's Journey to the Buddhist Kingdoms (399-414)

1. 1. Ch’ang-gan

   Today: Xi'an, Shaanxi, China · Arrived 1 January 399

   Fâ-Hien began his journey from Ch’ang-gan, entering into an agreement with fellow monks to travel to India in search of Buddhist disciplinary texts.

   Fâ-Hien had been living in Ch’ang-gan.(1) Deploring the mutilated and imperfect state of the collection of the Books of Discipline, in the second year of the period Hwăng-che, being the Ke-hâe year of the cycle,(2) he entered into an engagement with Kwuy-king, Tâo-ching, Hwuy-ying, and Hwuy-wei,(3) that they should go to India and seek for the Disciplinary Rules.(4)

   Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Chang'an”. Identified as Chang'an

2. 2. the river of sand

   Today: Gobi Desert, China/Mongolia · Arrived 1 January 399 · position reconstructed

   The pilgrims faced the arduous task of crossing the 'river of sand,' known today as the Gobi Desert, as they traveled westward from China toward Central Asia.

   It was a great task which the pilgrims had now before them,—to cross this desert. The name of “river” in the Chinese misleads the reader, and he thinks of crossing it as of crossing a stream; but they had to traverse it from east to west.

   Why is this position reconstructed?

3. 3. the river of sand

   Today: Gobi Desert, Mongolia/China · Arrived 399-400 · position reconstructed

   Fâ-Hien and his companions began their arduous crossing of the Gobi Desert, known as the 'river of sand,' facing dangers such as evil demons, hot winds, and the ever-present threat of death in the barren expanse.

   Le Hao,(15) the prefect of T’un-hwang, had supplied them with the means of crossing the desert (before them), in which there are many evil demons and hot winds. (Travellers) who encounter them perish all to a man. There is not a bird to be seen in the air above, nor an animal on the ground below. Though you look all round most earnestly to find where you can cross, you know not where to make your choice, the only mark and indication being the dry bones of the dead (left upon the sand).(16)

4. 4. Shen-shen

   Today: Loulan (Shanshan), Xinjiang, China · Arrived 1 January 400

   After traveling for seventeen days across the desert, the pilgrims reached the kingdom of Shen-shen, described as rugged and hilly with a thin and barren soil, and noted for its Buddhist monks and practices.

   After travelling for seventeen days, a distance we may calculate of about 1500 le, (the pilgrims) reached the kingdom of Shen-shen,(1) a country rugged and hilly, with a thin and barren soil.

5. 5. Khoten

   Today: Hotan, Xinjiang, China · Arrived 1 January 400

   The pilgrims arrived in Khoten (Hotan), a prosperous kingdom where Buddhism flourished and the population supported many monasteries. The monks were mostly students of the Mahayana, and the people practiced Buddhist customs widely.

   Yu-teen is a pleasant and prosperous kingdom, with a numerous and flourishing population. The inhabitants all profess our Law, and join together in its religious music for their enjoyment.(1) The monks amount to several myriads, most of whom are students of the mahayana.(2) They all receive their food from the common store.(3) Throughout the country the houses of the people stand apart like (separate) stars, and each family has a small tope(4) reared in front of its door.

6. 6. Yarkand

   Today: Shache (Yarkand), Xinjiang, China · Arrived 1 January 400

   The surviving testimony does not cover this stage — help us find one.

   The record survives. Why is this stage empty?

7. 7. the Little Snowy mountains

   Today: Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan · Arrived 1 December 400

   Fâ-Hien and his companions crossed the Little Snowy mountains (the Pamirs), where Hwuy-king died from the extreme cold before the group succeeded in crossing the range.

   On them the snow lies accumulated both winter and summer. On the north (side) of the mountains, in the shade, they suddenly encountered a cold wind which made them shiver and become unable to speak. Hwuy-king could not go any farther. A white froth came from his mouth, and he said to Fâ-Hien, “I cannot live any longer. Do you immediately go away, that we do not all die here;” and with these words he died.(3) Fâ-Hien stroked the corpse, and cried out piteously, “Our original plan has failed;—it is fate.(4) What can we do?” He then again exerted himself, and they succeeded in crossing to t

8. 8. Woo-chang, or Udyana

   Today: Swat Valley, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan · Arrived 1 January 401 · position reconstructed

   After crossing the Indus River, the travellers arrived in the kingdom of Woo-chang (Udyana), where they found Buddhism flourishing and many monasteries (Sangharamas) with monks practicing the hinayana tradition.

   After crossing the river, (the travellers) immediately came to the kingdom of Woo-chang,(1) which is indeed (a part) of North India. The people all use the language of Central India, “Central India” being what we should call the “Middle Kingdom.” The food and clothes of the common people are the same as in that Central Kingdom. The Law of Buddha is very (flourishing in Woo-chang). They call the places where the monks stay (for a time) or reside permanently Sangharamas; and of these there are in all 500, the monks being all students of the hinayana.

9. 9. Gandhara

   Today: Peshawar, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan · Arrived 1 January 401

   The travellers arrived in Gandhara after five days' journey eastward, where they visited the site associated with the legend of Buddha giving his eyes for another man, and observed a large tope (stupa) adorned with gold and silver plates.

   The travellers, going downwards from this towards the east, in five days came to the country of Gandhara,(1) the place where Dharma-vivardhana,(2) the son of Asoka,(3) ruled. When Buddha was a Bodhisattva, he gave his eyes also for another man here;(4) and at the spot they have also reared a large tope, adorned with layers of gold and silver plates. The people of the country were mostly students of the hinayana.

   Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Po-lu-sha-pu-lo”, Xuanzang — who called it “the royal city”. Identified as Peshawar

10. 10. Takshasila

    Today: Taxila, Punjab, Pakistan · Arrived 1 January 401

    Fa-Hien reached Takshasila after traveling eastwards for seven days from the Indus, identifying it as the ancient city between the river and Gandhara.

    It took him, indeed, seven days travelling eastwards to reach it; but we do not know what stoppages he may

    Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Taxila”. Identified as Taxila

11. 11. Purushapura, or Peshawur

    Today: Peshawar, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan · Arrived 1 January 401

    The travellers arrived at Purushapura (Peshawar), where they learned of a prophecy about King Kanishka and his tope, and about Buddha’s alms-bowl. The death of Hwuy-Ying is also noted in this location.

    CHAPTER XII. PURUSHAPURA, OR PESHAWUR. PROPHECY ABOUT KING KANISHKA AND HIS TOPE. BUDDHA’S ALMS-BOWL. DEATH OF HWUY-YING.

    Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Po-lu-sha-pu-lo”, Xuanzang — who called it “the royal city”. Identified as Peshawar

12. 12. Kapilavastu

    Today: Kapilavastu (Tilaurakot), Nepal · Arrived 1 January 402

    The travellers arrived at the city of Kapilavastu, finding it desolate with only a few monks and families remaining, and observed various memorials and topes marking events from Buddha's life.

    Less than a yojana to the east from this brought them to the city of Kapilavastu;(1) but in it there was neither king nor people. All was mound and desolation. Of inhabitants there were only some monks and a score or two of families of the common people. At the spot where stood the old palace of king Suddhodana(2) there have been made images of the prince (his eldest son) and his mother;(3) and at the places where that son appeared mounted on a white elephant when he entered his mother’s womb,(4) and where he turned his carriage round on seeing the sick man after he had gone out of the city by the eastern gate,(5) topes have been erected.

    Also called at by Xuanzang. Identified as Kapilavastu

13. 13. Vaisali

    Today: Vaishali, Bihar, India · Arrived 1 January 402

    The travellers arrived at Vaisali, where they visited several Buddhist sites including the double-galleried vihâra where Buddha dwelt, the tope over half the body of Ananda, and the vihâra built by Ambapali. They also saw the garden presented by Ambapali to Buddha and the site where Buddha took his last walk before attaining pari-nirvâna.

    East from this city ten yojanas, (the travellers) came to the kingdom of Vaisali. North of the city so named is a large forest, having in it the double-galleried vihâra(1) where Buddha dwelt, and the tope over half the body of Ananda.(2) Inside the city the woman Ambapali(3) built a vihâra in honour of Buddha, which is now standing as it was at first.

    Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Vaiśālī”. Identified as Vaishali

14. 14. Pataliputtra

    Today: Patna, Bihar, India · Arrived 1 January 403

    Fâ-Hien arrived at Pataliputtra, where he found a copy of the Vinaya in a mahayana monastery and spent three years transcribing manuscripts and studying Indian Buddhism.

    From Varanasi (the travellers) went back east to Pataliputtra. Fâ-Hien’s original object had been to search for (copies of) the Vinaya. In the various kingdoms of North India, however, he had found one master transmitting orally (the rules) to another, but no written copies which he could transcribe. He had therefore travelled far and come on to Central India. Here, in the mahayana monastery,(1) he found a copy of the Vinaya, containing the Mahasanghika(2) rules,—those which were observed in the first Great Council, while Buddha was still in the world.

    Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Kusumapura”. Identified as Patna

15. 15. New Rajagriha

    Today: Rajgir, Bihar, India · Arrived 1 January 406

    The travellers arrived at New Rajagriha, the city built by king Ajatasatru, where they visited Buddhist sites including monasteries and a tope built over Buddha's relics. They also explored the valley surrounded by five hills, identifying the old city of king Bimbisara.

    Another yojana to the west brought them to New Rajagriha,(7)—the new city which was built by king Ajatasatru. There were two monasteries in it. Three hundred paces outside the west gate, king Ajatasatru, having obtained one portion of the relics of Buddha, built (over them) a tope, high, large, grand, and beautiful. Leaving the city by the south gate, and proceeding south four le, one enters a valley, and comes to a circular space formed by five hills, which stand all round it, and have the appearance of the suburban wall of a city. Here was the old city of king Bimbisara; from east to west about five or six le, and from north to south seven or eight.

    Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Gridhrakuta”. Identified as Rajgir

16. 16. Gaya

    Today: Bodh Gaya, Bihar, India · Arrived 1 January 406

    The pilgrims arrived at the city of Gaya, found it desolate, and then traveled south to the site where the Bodhisattva practiced austerities for six years before attaining Buddhahood nearby.

    From this place, after travelling to the west for four yojanas, (the pilgrims) came to the city of Gaya;(1) but inside the city all was emptiness and desolation. Going on again to the south for twenty le, they arrived at the place where the Bodhisattva for six years practised with himself painful austerities. All around was forest.

17. 17. Tamalipti

    Today: Tamluk, West Bengal, India · Arrived 1 January 409

    Fâ-Hien arrived at Tamalipti, a seaport on the Bengal coast, where he stayed for two years writing out his Sûtras and drawing pictures of images before embarking by ship for Ceylon.

    Continuing his journey east for nearly fifty yojanas, he came to the country of Tamalipti,(2) (the capital of which is) a seaport. In the country there are twenty-two monasteries, at all of which there are monks residing. The Law of Buddha is also flourishing in it. Here Fâ-Hien stayed two years, writing out his Sûtras,(3) and drawing pictures of images.

    Also called at by Xuanzang — who called it “Tdmralipti”. Identified as Tamluk

18. 18. Java-dvipa

    Today: Java, Indonesia · Arrived 1 January 412

    After a voyage of more than ninety days, Fâ-Hien and his companions arrived at Java-dvipa, where they stayed for five months before embarking again for China.

    After proceeding in this way for rather more than ninety days, they arrived at a country called Java-dvipa, where various forms of error and Brahmanism are flourishing, while Buddhism in it is not worth speaking of. After staying there for five months, (Fâ-Hien) again embarked in another large merchantman, which also had on board more than 200 men.

    Also called at by Francis Drake — who called it “Java”. Identified as Java

19. 19. Nanking

    Today: Nanjing, Jiangsu, China · Arrived 1 January 414

    After a long and perilous voyage from India via Java, Fâ-Hien arrived in China at Shan-tung and then proceeded to Nanking, marking the conclusion of his travels.

    CHAPTER XL. AFTER TWO YEARS TAKES SHIP FOR CHINA. DISASTROUS PASSAGE TO JAVA; AND THENCE TO CHINA; ARRIVES AT SHAN-TUNG; AND GOES TO NANKING. CONCLUSION OR L’ENVOI BY ANOTHER WRITER.

Published under CC BY-SA 4.0. Sources keep their own open licences. See the Magna Carta of the Seas for how this was verified.