The log

Jacques Cartier and the St Lawrence (1534-1542)

Jacques Cartier · 1534–1541 · La Grande Hermine and the ships of three voyages from Saint-Malo

Three voyages into the Gulf of St Lawrence and up the river: the cross raised at Gaspé, the winter at Stadacona and the scurvy that was cured by an Iroquoian remedy, the journey to Hochelaga beneath the mountain Cartier named Mont Royal, and the failed colony of Charlesbourg-Royal.

Sail this voyage on the map

The itinerary

24 stages. Journal excerpts are verbatim from public-domain sources, each with its citation; where no verified quote exists, the entry says so rather than inventing one.

  1. 1. St. Malo

    Today: Saint-Malo, Brittany, France · Arrived 5 September 1534 · position reconstructed

    Jacques Cartier and his crew returned to the harbour of St. Malo, completing their first voyage of exploration to the land they called New France.

    that we reached the harbour of St. Malo whence we had set forth, on [Saturday] September 5 in the said year [1534].
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “St. Maloes. Identified as Saint-Malo

  2. 2. Cape Bonavista

    Today: Cape Bonavista, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada · Arrived 1 May 1534 · position reconstructed

    Jacques Cartier arrived at Cape Bonavista, Newfoundland, marking one of his first landfalls in the New World during his 1534 voyage.

    It is still called cape Bonavista and lies in latitude 48° 42’ 27”. The name is given on the Viegas, Riccardiana, Desliens, Vallard and Mercator maps and on the Desceliers planisphere.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  3. 3. Bird rocks

    Today: Îles aux Oiseaux (Bird Rocks), Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 June 1534 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yethelp us find one.

  4. 4. strait of Belle Isle

    Today: Strait of Belle Isle, Newfoundland and Labrador/Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 June 1534 · position reconstructed

    Jacques Cartier's expedition entered the Strait of Belle Isle, marking their passage from the Atlantic into the Gulf of St. Lawrence and making known the existence of open water over a vast area.

    The strait of Belle Isle with that portion of the gulf of St. Lawrence lying just inside the strait. The name was a most natural one if it be borne in mind that those who first made their way from the Atlantic through this strait into the gulf were quite unaware both of the extension of that inland water as far as Cabot strait and of the existence of the river St. Lawrence. This west end of the strait naturally appeared to them therefore to form a “ Big Bay.”
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  5. 5. Gaspé

    Today: Gaspé Peninsula, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 July 1534 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yethelp us find one.

  6. 6. Assumption island

    Today: Anticosti Island, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 July 1534 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his crew sighted and named the island 'Assumption island' (now Anticosti Island) during their exploration of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

    The above-mentioned [West] cape on the island [of Anticosti], which we named “ Assumption island’’”§, and a cape on this high [Gaspé] shore”, lie east-north-east and west-
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  7. 7. Belle-Isle

    Today: Belle Isle, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada · Arrived 1 July 1534 · position reconstructed

    The expedition reached Belle-Isle at the entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, a key landmark between Newfoundland and the coast of Labrador, which was noted as an important point for navigation and fishing.

    one Island in the very entrie of the streight called Belle Isle, which places if they be peopled and well fortified . . . wee shall be lordes of the whole fishing in small time,” in Hakluyt, op. cit., III, 134.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  8. 8. St. Malo

    Today: Saint-Malo, Brittany, France · Arrived 5 September 1534 · position reconstructed

    Jacques Cartier and his crew completed their voyage and returned to the harbour of St. Malo, from where they had originally set out.

    that we reached the harbour of St. Malo whence we had set forth, on [Saturday] September 5 in the said year [1534].
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “St. Maloes. Identified as Saint-Malo

  9. 9. St. Malo

    Today: Saint-Malo, Brittany, France · Arrived 16 July 1536 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his crew completed their return voyage and arrived back at the harbour of St. Malo, France, from which they had originally set forth.

    and entered a harbour called Rougnouse +”, where we took on board . wood and fresh water for consumption at sea. Here we left one of our long-boats'®. And on Monday, the nineteenth of that month [of June], we set forth from this [Renewse] harbour and were favoured at sea with such good weather that we reached St. Malo on [Sunday] July 161°, 1536, thanks be to God, whom we implore on bringing our voyage to an end, to give us His grace and His paradise hereafter. Amen.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “St. Maloes. Identified as Saint-Malo

  10. 10. strait of Belle Isle

    Today: Strait of Belle Isle, Newfoundland and Labrador/Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 July 1535 · position reconstructed

    Cartier's expedition entered the Strait of Belle Isle, marking the passage from the Atlantic into the Gulf of St. Lawrence and making known the existence of open water over a vast area.

    The strait of Belle Isle with that portion of the gulf of St. Lawrence lying just inside the strait. The name was a most natural one if it be borne in mind that those who first made their way from the Atlantic through this strait into the gulf were quite unaware both of the extension of that inland water as far as Cabot strait and of the existence of the river St. Lawrence.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  11. 11. isle of Birds

    Today: Funk Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada · Arrived 21 May 1534

    Cartier's expedition arrived at the Isle of Birds (Funk Island), where they found an incredible number of seabirds and collected many for food, salting several casks full.

    And on [Thursday] the twenty-first of the said month of May we set forth from this [Catalina] harbour with a west wind, and sailed north, one quarter north-east of cape Bonavista as far as the isle of Birds!, which island was completely surrounded and encompassed by a cordon of loose ice, split up into cakes. In spite of this belt [of ice] our two long-boats were sent off to the island to procure some of the birds, whose numbers are so great as to be incredible, unless one has seen them”; for although the island is about a league in circumference’, it is so exceeding full
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  12. 12. Anticosti island

    Today: Anticosti Island, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 August 1535 · position reconstructed

    The expedition explored and described Anticosti Island, noting its geography and the presence of a large bay with good anchorage. The island was recognized as significant for navigation in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

    Anticosti island which is 135 miles long and about thirty miles in width at the broadest part.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  13. 13. river of the Saguenay

    Today: Saguenay River (mouth), Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 August 1535 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his party learned from local chiefs about the Saguenay River, its navigability, and its connection to the legendary kingdom of Saguenay, while traveling and interacting with tribes near their ships after returning from Hochelaga.

    And we learned from Chief Donnacona, from Taignoagny, Dom Agaya and the others that the above-mentioned river, named the “river of the Saguenay,” reaches to the [kingdom of the] Saguenay °’, which lies more than a moon’s journey from its mouth, towards the west-north-west; but that after eight or nine days’ journey, this river is only navig- able for small boats®*®; that the regular and direct route to the [kingdom of the] Saguenay and the safer one, is by
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  14. 14. island of Orleans

    Today: Île d'Orléans, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 September 1535 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his crew arrived and anchored at the foot of the island of Orleans, a key waypoint as they ascended the St. Lawrence River toward Stadacona.

    On Saturday, May 6, we set sail from Stef Croix harbour ®®, and came to anchor at the foot of the island of Orleans®’, some twelve leagues from Ste. Croix.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  15. 15. Stadacona

    Today: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 15 September 1535 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yethelp us find one.

  16. 16. Hochelaga

    Today: Montreal, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 October 1535 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yethelp us find one.

  17. 17. Stadacona

    Today: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 12 October 1535 · position reconstructed

    Jacques Cartier and his men visited the village of Stadacona, home of Donnacona and his people, which stood about half a league from where their ships were anchored near the St. Charles River.

    he Captain, accompanied by the gentlemen and with fifty sailors drawn up in order, went to visit Donnacona and his people at their home called Stada- cona!®, which stood about half a league from the spot where lay our ships. And on drawing near the village, the inhabitants
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  18. 18. St. Malo

    Today: Saint-Malo, Brittany, France · Arrived 16 July 1536 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his crew completed their return voyage and arrived at the harbour of St. Malo, thus ending their expedition.

    and entered a harbour called Rougnouse +”, where we took on board . wood and fresh water for consumption at sea. Here we left one of our long-boats'®. And on Monday, the nineteenth of that month [of June], we set forth from this [Renewse] harbour and were favoured at sea with such good weather that we reached St. Malo on [Sunday] July 161°, 1536, thanks be to God, whom we implore on bringing our voyage to an end, to give us His grace and His paradise hereafter. Amen.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “St. Maloes. Identified as Saint-Malo

  19. 19. St. Malo

    Today: Saint-Malo, Brittany, France · Arrived 1 May 1541 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his fleet departed from St. Malo, Brittany, France, at the start of his third voyage to Canada in May 1541, after being given full authority by Monsieur Roberval.

    After these things thus dispatched, the winde comming faire, the foresayd five ships set sayle together well furnished and victualled for two yeare, the 23. of May, 15407. And we sailed so long with contrary winds and continuall torments, which fell out by reason of our late departure, that wee were on the sea with our sayd five ships full three moneths before wee could arriv
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “St. Maloes. Identified as Saint-Malo

  20. 20. cape Rouge

    Today: Cap-Rouge, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 August 1541 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yethelp us find one.

  21. 21. Stadacona

    Today: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 September 1541 · position reconstructed

    Cartier and his expedition arrived at the village of Stadacona, located beneath the north brow of Cape Diamond, where they interacted with the local inhabitants and remained for an extended period.

    This village is called Stada- cona’?. And before reaching this point, there are four tribes and villages, namely: Ajoaste, Starnatam, Tailla, which is on a moun- tain, and Sitadin. Then the village of Stadacona. Beneath this high land on the north lies the river and harbour of Ste. Croix [St. Charles], where we remained with our ships hauled out, as before mentioned, from September 15, [1535] until May 6, 1536.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  22. 22. Hochelaga

    Today: Montreal, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 October 1535 · position reconstructed

    No verified journal excerpt for this stage yethelp us find one.

  23. 23. the building on the river of Cape Rouge and in the one on the cliff above

    Today: Charlesbourg-Royal, Quebec, Canada · Arrived 1 January 1541 · position reconstructed

    Cartier's men began building a fort at the mouth of the Cape Rouge river, establishing Charlesbourg-Royal, and suffered from scurvy and harsh conditions during the winter.

    That is in the mess below in the building on the river of Cape Rouge and in the one on the cliff above.
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)
  24. 24. St. Malo

    Today: Saint-Malo, Brittany, France · Arrived 5 September 1534 · position reconstructed

    Jacques Cartier and his crew returned to the harbour of St. Malo, completing their first voyage of exploration to the lands later called New France.

    that we reached the harbour of St. Malo whence we had set forth, on [Saturday] September 5 in the said year [1534].
    The Voyages of Jacques Cartier (ed. H. P. Biggar, Public Archives of Canada, 1924)

    Also called at by Louis-Antoine de Bougainville — who called it “St. Maloes. Identified as Saint-Malo

Published under CC BY-SA 4.0. Sources keep their own open licences. See the Magna Carta of the Seas for how this was verified.